GEAR MYTHS BOLTS ARE ALWAYS BOMBER, RIGHT?

Go ahead, take the whip. You’ve got a trucker bolt just below.

But wait … you sure about that?

In this Gear Myths, Kolin “KP” Powick shares a recent close call, which resulted in an exploration of safety protocol when it comes to sport climbing.

Bolts.
Hangers.
Anchors.
Fixed gear.

Tie in and go….right?

“Recently, my undercover crusher wife Ellen Powick was trying a route at our local crag and took a little plopper fall while barely above the bolt—standard fare.

Then she let out a little scream (extremely unusual) and continued to fall further than expected, luckily coming up short of hitting the ledge below. She was fine, but we were all confused as to what had just happened.

It turns out the nut on the bolt must have come loose with barely any thread remaining,and a slightly outward force of the fall popped it off, resulting in the hanger and entire fixed permadraw flying off and sailing down the rope during the fall clocking her in the forearm.”

– KP

Listen to Black Diamond’s athletes view on the matter…

“I personally started to check bolts after I ripped one while bolting a multi-pitch ground up”

-Jacopo Larcher

“I also think it’s important to check fixed quickdraws. Often, they are super sharp, or the webbing is really worn.”

-Hazel Findlay

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